Many people make mistakes when they repaint a room in the house and many questions hang over how best to proceed. If, a priori, this work seems easy to do, it is even more when you know some basic stuff. It takes perhaps more preparation time, but in the end, everyone wins because the paint does not flake and is much nicer longer.


Protect your floor: If you are an owner and you know you have to repaint several rooms over the years, I recommend you first buy a painting tarp to cover the ground. You will find in any home center. There are different formats for different sizes of room. They avoid the damage that can be done with plastic sheeting that is spread on the ground and where you hang your feet sometimes.

Protect the moldings: To protect moldings, I favor the use of masking tape. Ask the clerk in the paint who has the best grip to prevent the paint from under the disgusting pieces of tape that could have come off. Small detail: I always tear the ribbon at an angle when I get in the corners. When paint is dry and you defeat the masking tape, use a utility knife (Exacto or Olfa) to cut the ends of paint overlap the tape and the wall. Otherwise, you risk tearing the paint when you remove the tape.


Wash walls: This is a step that many people overlook. Yet it is essential to cleanse the stains of fingers or grease that may prevent paint from adhering properly and that could make it peel. To ensure a good job, I suggest you clean them with TSP cleaner (sodium triphosphate) which removes the good fats. For the kitchen, this is a must.

Primer: Contrary to popular belief, apply the primer BEFORE making various repairs on our walls (plug holes, spackle). Defects in our wall stand out much better with primer. It is then able to make an effective repair work.

For primers, I use brushes and rollers cheap since I always choose an oil primer that covers the wall better and provides better adhesion. Obviously this is perhaps more complicated to work with oil, but the result is conclusive. Once the job is done, I pack my brushes completely (including handle) in cellophane and I put out (if it’s winter) or frozen. Then I take it back after repairs and I throws when work is completed. I avoids the overuse of Varsol to clean them. Trays for paint (I know this is more or less environmentally friendly, but very handy), I buy plastic tray liners that I can throw away after each layer. And balance, with all Varsol and water needed to clean our accessories, it is perhaps no worse to buy disposable! we choose a roller with bristles of 6 mm in length. To do the cutting, I always carry a brush at an angle.


When my primer is dry, I trace circles around repairs with an HB pencil. It can well trace where the cement has been extended since it dries, it becomes white and blends into the wall. This is also a good way of knowing when it is ready to be sanded: when wet, it is gray, dry, it is white. I suggest putting a small layer and remove with a trowel, apply several coats to leave the (up to 4 if necessary!). This prevents small clumps of dried cement that would be seen under the paint.

After applying the joint compound (which is less dust than the ordinary cement), I use a sponge sanding block. It has the advantage of several grain sizes on all four sides, for various uses. To prevent dust from spreading quickly in the house, I also suggest working with the sweeper (type “Shop Vac” or workshop) nearby to pick up dirt as you go. Finally, I put the oil primer on reparations.


I prefer to choose whether to paint in oil or 100% acrylic, which really brings a lot of oil painting. For choosing the quality of the painting (and the price you want to put), one must ask how long you want to keep painting. If you’re the type to want to change every three years, it’s not worth perhaps not worth investing for the high quality paint. By cons, if you want a durable, cost and effort certainly worth the effort.

Some tips

# we suggest always apply two coats of paint, minimum.
# Firstly, for the purposes of painting, follow gravity: start with the ceiling, baseboards and casings, and then the walls.
# When your roll is loaded, that is to say, coated paint, start with the middle of the wall and made ​​2-3 roll widths to avoid the scenes. However, we must avoid getting too large widths, and because you will stretch your paint, which has consequences on the final result. If you use the oil painting, when finished “roll “your wall, with your iron without paint roller to tighten the grain. To take off the little drops of paint on the floor or side moldings, I suggest using a paint scraper with carbide blade. Very effective!