In our previous article, we installed a hardwood floor in a rectangular room. However, like everything is never perfect in this world, we encountered some difficulties, especially vis-a-vis the entrance and in the closets. Let’s see how to get around those little “problems.”

The hardwood floor: the wardrobe input

If it’s a wardrobe of entry (family), I recommend to forget the hardwood inside. Indeed, snow, sand and water will affect the material, even painted over the years. Prefer ceramics.

# To facilitate the finish, create a template (small wooden board) that you install inside your closet, behind the door.
# Calculate the number of boards needed by measuring the width well.
# Then place the past by relying on the template. When your floor is finished, it will do is install your ceramic.

hard-wood

Personally, I prefer to install a small aluminum trim, “L” to ensure a better finish. At this point, two options are available: splitting the board at an angle of 90 degrees, then fill the gap with silicone or comply with the trim angle “L”, which is less than 90 degrees.

# Again, finish it all with silicone to prevent accumulation of water or dirt.
# Slip the first board so that it reaches the inside of your door frame, leaving no space.
# If you can not do otherwise, fill the void with silicone transparent.
# Once installed the wood floor, cut a plywood so that the height of your ceramic is equal to that of your floor.

The hardwood floor: the wardrobe interior

The process is much the same to install the hardwood floor in a closet in bedroom. However, the ceramic is not essential. You must therefore calculate the number of boards and install them as necessary for a normal floor. I invite you to read my first article on the hardwood floor .

To install the latest plates, the solution is simple.

# Turn the plank (tongue and groove tongue and groove male on female)
# Slide the boards into place, slowly.
# Fix these with a finish nailer.

The hardwood floor: entrance hall

You have opted for an open input ceramic, you’ll have to define it with a wooden template.

# Make sure the boards are based on the latter, in a 90 degree angle.
# If you select a molding “L”, you can trim the beveled end, as you did for the entry closet.
# On the side of your entry, you will rip the board or remove the tongue and groove with a table saw.
# After this stage, make sure your ceramic has the same height as the wooden floor once installed.
# Use pieces of plywood.
# Set up your trim, your ceramic.
# Do a silicone joint
# For outside corners, repeat the same operations as for input, pressing the ends of the planks on the drywall.
# You only have to install a baseboard thereafter.

The hardwood floor: stairs

If you have a staircase that leads upstairs, you will still make some adjustments. Personally, I prefer to calculate the thickness of the board and cut the riser, then silt, using a portable high-performance tool. This way, you can insert your new floor under the stairs to get a professional finish.

The hardwood floor: scratches

Despite all the precautions taken when moving furniture for example, the scratches are almost inevitable. For small, I use a product called Secrets of the job you usually find in the department of painting your home center. The package contains everything you will need to repair the light or dark floors. Once the scratch hidden, use an artist’s brush to apply polish to your work. For larger scratches, Saman the manufacturer offers a range of repairs including a pulp and a protective liquid. The technique used is essentially the same.